Zambia: Going to town in the heart of Africa

Rol af vir Afrikaans

Our guide for the day is Saliem, a bright young man with a lovely sense of humour. He works as a wildlife guide at the Wildlife Camp South Luangwa, our home for 10 days. His knowledge of birds, fauna and the area makes him excellent company.

Trade and barter is an old Africa tradition. It forms the heartbeat of settlements which has been absorbed into the DNA of the inhabitants. We experienced this again here in the large informal village of Mfuwe in the Luangwa Valley in Zambia. A busy place with only one tarred road flanked by giant wild mango, avokado and syringa trees, little shops, houses and open air workshops.

First we followed a dirt road through varying thickets, forests, plains, across rivers, and later past one or two rice paddies where people were bent over, busy harvesting. Groups of fishermen were on their way to the river. Closer to town there were maize, groundnut and vegetable fields worked and farmed by locals.

Mfuwe is poor, but busy and colourful. The people upbeat and friendly. It was school holidays and the streets were filled with children and young people wandering, playing, doing odd jobs. Young boys transport bags of rice and maize on bicycles. The little ones sit under trees sorting rice and maize or beans, surrounded by chickens gleaning bits left behind. Others man their little shops or stand around in groups, chatting. Workshops for bicycle repairs or where furniture is made are in the open air in the shade of trees. We watched in amazement how cyclists transport huge loads of charcoal, groceries or a passenger – cycling past without looking about. Because there are no state subsidies or grants, everyone has to work to stay alive.

We stopped every now and then at stalls selling brightly coloured cotton cloth which the women bind about their waists as long skirts. We were looking for smaller designs and subtler colours.

I asked whether I could take photos and every time the friendly response: No problem! We felt at home here in the heart of Africa with its warm people.

We had lunch at Tinta’s Grill. A simple traditional restaurant. On the menu was chicken and fish in various forms, mostly accompanied by msima (pap) and sauces. We decided on pan-fried bream, with the tasty local rice and vegetables. As a side dish we ordered a traditional dish that looks and tastes like marog which I remember from my childhood – a wild green leafy plant which is prepared with onion and tomato like spinach. But, here they flavour it with groundnut powder.

On the return trip Saliem spotted a couple of Thornicroft giraffe which are indigenous to the Luangwa Valley. Smaller than their southern cousins, with triangular patterns and the appearance of wearing long socks. We turned off and drove to a pan where they stood in the shade of large trees. Waterbuck, impala and long-legged baboons grazed and foraged peacefully alongside each other. Closer to us was a group of sacred ibises and hammerheads. Suddenly the ibises flew up noisily. I heard a loud noise above me and got a fright when I saw the giant bird with its long, sharp red beak and wide white wings swooping very close over my head and preparing to land with open wings – a saddle-billed stork. A graceful experience. The hammerheads were unperturbed. Saliem explained that they don’t eat the same food as the storks. So they are ignored.

I don’t ever want to forget today.

For this photo blog I took photos of shops. Also a few cyclists.

Dorp toe in die hart van Afrika

Handeldryf en uitruil is ‘n ou Afrikatradisie. Dit is die hartklop van nederstettings wat in die DNS van die inwoners ingeënt is. Ons het dit nou weer hier in die groterige en informele dorpie, Mfuwe in die Luangwavallei van Zambië, gevind. ‘n Bedrywig plek met net een geteerde teerpad, geflank met reuse mango-, avokado- en seringbome, winkeltjies, huise en opelug werkswinkels.

Ons gids vir die dag is Saliem, ‘n wakker jongman met ‘n heerlike sin vir humor. Hy werk as ‘n natuurgids by die Wildlife Camp South Luangwa waar ons vir 10 dae tuis is. Sy kennis van voëls, diere en die omgewing maak van hom ‘n goeie gespreksgenoot.

Ons ry eers grondpadlangs deur wisselende bosse, woude, vlaktes, oor riviere, en later verby een of twee ryslande waar mense besig om gebukkend die rys te oes. Groepe vissermanne is op pad rivier toe. Nader aan die dorp is daar mielie-, grondboontjie en groentelande waar mense werk en bewerk.

Mfuwe is armoedig, maar besig en kleurvol. Die mense opgeruimd en vriendelik. Dit is skoolvakansie en die strate is vol kinders en jongmense wat drentel, speel, of werkies verrig. Jongs seuns ry sakke meel met fietse aan. Jongetjies sit onder bome en sorteer mieliepitte of bone, terwyl hulle omring is deur hoenders wat ‘n pit of twee aas. Ander beman hulle klein winkeltjies of staan in groepies en gesels. Werkswinkels waar herstelwerk aan fietse gedoen word, of waar meubels gemaak word is in die buitelug onder die koelte van bome. Ons verkyk ons aan die fietsers wat met groot vragte houtskool, opgestapelde kruideniersware, of met passasiers verbytrap – sonder om rond te kyk. Omdat hier geen staatstoelaes is nie, móét almal werk om aan die lewe te bly.

Ons hou hou kort-kort stil by die plekke waar helderkleurige katoendoeke wat die vrouens om hulle middelywe vasbind en soos lang rompe dra. Ons soek na ontwerpe in fyner patrone en subtieler kleure.

Ek vra of ek foto’s mag neem en telkens is die vriendelike antwoord: No problem! Ons voel tuis hier in die hart van Afrika met sy gulhartige mense. 

Ons gaan eet middagete by Tinta’s Grill. ‘n Eenvoudige tradisionele restourant. Op die spyskaart is daar hoender en vis in verskillende gedaantes en souse. Ons besluit op gebraaide bream, met die geurige plaaslike rys en groente. As bykos bestel ons ‘n tradisionele gereg wat lyk en proe soos marog wat ek uit my kinderdae onthou – ‘n wilde blaarplant wat met uie en tamatie gekook word, soos spinasie. Hier met fyngemaalde grondboontjiemeel gegeur.

Met die terugry sien Saliem ‘n paar Thornicroft kameelperde wat inheems is aan die Luangwavallei. Kleiner, driehoekpatrone en dit lyk asof hulle langkouse dra. Ons draai af en ry tot by ‘n pan waar hulle in die koelte van groot bome staan. Waterbokke, rooibokke en langbeen bobbejane wei rustig saam. Nader aan ons wei ‘n swerm heilige ibusse en hamerkoppe. Skielik vlieg die ibisse met ‘n groot geraas op. Ek hoor ‘n gedruis bokant my kop en skrik toe ek die reusagtige voël met sy lang, skerp rooi snawel en met wye wit vlerke vlak bo my sien verbysweef en regmaak om oopvlerk land – ‘n saalbekooievaar. ‘n Sierlike belewenis. Die hamerkoppe bly onverstoord. Saliem verduidelik dat hulle nie dieselfde kos as die ooivaar eet nie. Hulle word verdra.

Vandag wil ek nooit vergeet nie.

Vir hierdie fotoblog het ek foto’s van winkels geneem. Ook ‘n paar fietsers.